Greek wines: a practical guide

Greek wine carries centuries of tradition but remains one of Europe's least understood wine cultures outside its borders. This guide explains what makes Greek wine distinctive, how to read a Greek wine list at restaurants across the UK, and which bottles suit the food you're ordering. Delphi Restaurant exists to make Greek dining approachable, and wine is part of that conversation.

Indigenous grapes and what they taste like

Greece grows over three hundred native grape varieties, most of them unpronounceable to English speakers and unknown elsewhere. A handful appear regularly on UK restaurant lists, and learning three or four names gives you confidence when the sommelier asks what you'd like.

Assyrtiko is the white grape you'll meet most often. Grown on volcanic soil in Santorini and elsewhere, it produces bone-dry wines with high acidity, citrus and mineral notes, and occasionally a saline edge. It cuts through olive oil and holds up to grilled fish without disappearing.

Moschofilero comes from the Peloponnese and offers something lighter: floral, aromatic, with pink-skinned grapes that give a faint blush to the finished wine. Slightly lower alcohol, often served chilled as an aperitif or paired with mezze.

Xinomavro is the red grape with the most structure. The name translates as "acid-black", which tells you what to expect: high tannins, high acidity, flavours of dried tomato, olive and dark fruit. It ages well and suits richer stews and roasted meat.

Agiorgitiko is softer, rounder, more immediately approachable. Red fruit, moderate tannins, often blended but increasingly bottled on its own. A safe choice if you want red wine without the astringency of Xinomavro.

Regional character and Protected Designations of Origin

Greek wine law protects certain regions under the PDO system (Protected Designation of Origin), similar to French AOC or Italian DOC. The designation guarantees that the wine comes from a specific place and follows production rules.

Santorini PDO is the most famous. Assyrtiko vines grow in basket-shaped formations close to the ground, sheltering grapes from wind on an island with almost no rain. The result is concentrated, mineral-driven whites that pair exceptionally well with seafood.

Naoussa PDO in northern Greece produces Xinomavro at its most serious: age-worthy, structured, often compared to Barolo or Nebbiolo for its tannin and acidity. Not an easy-drinking wine, but remarkable with lamb or game.

Nemea PDO is Agiorgitiko's heartland. The wines range from light and fruity to dense and oak-aged, depending on altitude and winemaking. The region sits in the Peloponnese, and most UK Greek restaurants stock at least one Nemea red.

Wines labelled PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) come from broader areas and allow more flexibility in grape choice and technique. Quality varies more widely, but many excellent everyday wines carry PGI rather than PDO.

Retsina: what it is and whether you should order it

Retsina is white or rosé wine flavoured with pine resin during fermentation, a practice that dates back to ancient times when resin sealed amphorae and inevitably influenced the wine inside. The modern version is deliberate: resin is added, then removed before bottling, leaving behind a piney, herbal note.

The reputation rests on decades of poorly made retsina served warm in tourist tavernas. Done well, it's crisp, refreshing and works brilliantly with oily fish, fried vegetables and feta. The resin note should be present but not medicinal.

Worth trying once, ideally cold and alongside food. If you dislike it, you'll know; if it surprises you, order it again with fried squid or grilled sardines.

Matching wine to Greek dishes

Greek food is built on olive oil, lemon, herbs and char from the grill, and wine has to work around those dominant flavours rather than against them.

• Mezze and dips: Assyrtiko, Moschofilero or a light PGI white. High acidity balances the richness of tzatziki, taramasalata and melitzanosalata.
• Grilled fish and octopus: Santorini Assyrtiko is the classic choice. The salinity in the wine mirrors the seafood; the acidity cuts the olive oil.
• Souvlaki and grilled chicken: Agiorgitiko or a medium-bodied rosé. Enough body to match char without overwhelming the meat.
• Moussaka and pastitsio: Xinomavro or a Naoussa red. The tannins handle the béchamel and baked richness; the acidity keeps the wine lively.
• Lamb kleftiko and slow-cooked stews: Aged Xinomavro or a Nemea reserve. These are wines for fatty, tender meat that's fallen off the bone.

How to read a Greek wine list in a UK restaurant

Many Greek restaurants in the UK stock a short wine list, often without detailed tasting notes. A few clues help you choose without guessing.

Look for the grape variety first. If the label names Assyrtiko, Xinomavro or another indigenous grape, you know what style to expect. Blends are harder to predict but often list the dominant grape.

Check the region or PDO. Santorini, Naoussa and Nemea signal established quality. Lesser-known regions are not necessarily worse, but they carry more risk if you're unfamiliar with the producer.

Vintage matters more for reds, especially Xinomavro, which benefits from age. Whites are mostly drunk young, though some Santorini Assyrtiko can age for a decade or more.

If the list includes a house wine, ask where it's from. Many Greek restaurants import directly from family wineries, and the house option can be excellent value.

Buying Greek wine to take home

Greek wine availability has improved across the UK over the past decade, though selection remains uneven. Specialist importers and independent wine merchants carry the widest range; supermarkets stock a handful of entry-level bottles.

Expect to pay between ten and twenty pounds for a solid everyday bottle, twenty-five to forty for something from a named PDO or a respected producer. Fine wine from Santorini or aged Naoussa can reach fifty pounds or more.

Store whites in a cool, dark place and drink them within two years unless the label suggests otherwise. Reds with structure—Xinomavro especially—benefit from cellaring, but most Greek reds are bottled ready to drink.

If you've enjoyed a wine at a restaurant, ask the name and producer. Many Greek wineries have UK distributors, and your local wine shop may be able to order a case.

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